Bermuda Grass Care Schedule: Month by Month

Bermuda grass is forgiving when conditions are right and unforgiving when they're not. Get the timing right and it's one of the best-looking lawns you can grow. Get it wrong and you spend the season chasing problems.

This is the full annual schedule. Every task, every window, tied to soil temperature where it matters.

Winter (December through February)

Bermuda is dormant. The lawn is brown. Leave it alone.

Do not fertilize dormant Bermuda. Nitrogen on a dormant lawn feeds weeds, not grass. Do not irrigate unless you have an extended dry, windy stretch that could desiccate the roots. Water lightly if that happens, then stop.

This is the time to handle two things.

Soil testing: Send a sample to your county extension office or a private lab. Get results back before the growing season starts so you know exactly what your lawn needs. Do this every two to three years.

Winter weed control: If your lawn has a history of winter annuals like henbit or chickweed, apply a selective post-emergent herbicide when air temperatures are consistently above 55 degrees and Bermuda is fully dormant. You can also use a non-selective herbicide like glyphosate on fully dormant Bermuda to knock back winter weeds. The grass is dormant and won't be harmed. Do not attempt this if the lawn is showing any green.

Early Spring (March through April)

This is the most critical window of the year. Two things have to happen before your lawn breaks dormancy.

Pre-emergent herbicide: Apply before soil temperatures hit 55 degrees. Crabgrass germinates at 55 degrees and will get ahead of you if you wait. In Zone 8 and warmer that means February in many years. In Zone 7 it's typically late February to mid-March. Use prodiamine or dithiopyr at labeled rates. Apply a second application 8 to 10 weeks later for season-long control.

Do not fertilize yet. The lawn is not ready. Applying nitrogen before full green-up stresses the plant and risks burning tender new growth if a late frost comes through. Wait.

Watch for spring dead spot as the lawn greens up. It shows as circular patches of tan or brown sunken turf, typically 2 inches to 3 feet across. It's caused by a fungal pathogen that was active in fall. Mark the affected areas. Apply nitrogen monthly through summer to promote recovery. Consider a fall fungicide application if your lawn has a recurring history.

Late Spring (May through June)

Green-up is complete. Now you start working.

First fertilizer application: Wait until the lawn has fully greened and you have mowed it at least twice. Apply 0.5 to 1 pound of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet. Use a slow-release product for this first application. It feeds gradually and reduces burn risk on a lawn that just came out of dormancy.

Mowing: Start mowing regularly at 1 to 1.5 inches for hybrid Bermuda, 1.5 to 2.5 inches for common Bermuda. Never remove more than one-third of the leaf blade at a single mowing. Mow every 5 to 7 days during active growth.

Dethatching: If your thatch layer is thicker than half an inch, vertical mow in late May after the lawn has fully greened. Do not vertical mow before full green-up. Recovery will be extremely slow.

Aeration: Core aerate in late spring or early summer during active growth. This is the correct time for Bermuda. Do not aerate in fall or winter.

Summer (June through August)

Peak growing season. Bermuda wants heat and responds well to consistent feeding.

Fertilization: Apply 0.75 to 1 pound of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet every 4 to 6 weeks. Do not exceed 1 pound per application. Quick-release nitrogen works well mid-season when the grass is actively growing. You will see a response within a week.

Irrigation: Water to a depth of 4 to 6 inches when needed. That typically means 1 to 1.25 inches per week from rainfall and irrigation combined. Water early in the morning. Wet grass sitting overnight invites disease. Check by feel or with a screwdriver — if it pushes 6 inches into the soil without resistance, moisture is adequate.

Insect monitoring: Bermuda is susceptible to grubs, armyworms, and sod webworms during summer. Check for grub damage in late summer. If you find more than 5 grubs per square foot, treat with a curative insecticide containing trichlorfon or clothianidin. For armyworms and webworms, treat with bifenthrin or carbaryl when damage appears.

Weed control: Apply post-emergent herbicides for broadleaf weeds and grassy weeds as needed. Do not apply when temperatures are above 90 degrees or when the lawn is drought-stressed. Bermuda is sensitive to certain herbicides, including 2,4-D, during hot summer temperatures. Read the label and check the temperature before you spray.

Early Fall (September through October)

Start winding down. Do not push late-season growth.

Final nitrogen application: Make your last nitrogen application 6 to 8 weeks before your first expected frost. Later applications push tender growth that gets killed at first frost and weakens the lawn going into winter.

Potassium application: If your soil test indicates a need, apply potassium in fall. It strengthens the plant for winter dormancy without pushing top growth. Use a fertilizer with a high potassium ratio such as 10-0-40, or supplement with potash.

Fall pre-emergent: Apply a second pre-emergent in late August to mid-September to control winter annual weeds like annual bluegrass and henbit. Products containing prodiamine or pendimethalin work well for this application.

Disease monitoring: Fall is when spring dead spot fungus becomes active, even though you won't see symptoms until spring. If your lawn has a history of spring dead spot, apply a fungicide in September or October. Thiophanate-methyl and azoxystrobin are both effective.

Late Fall (November)

The lawn is entering dormancy. Wind down.

Stop mowing once the lawn stops growing actively. Make a final mow at normal height to prevent matting over winter.

Stop irrigation as rainfall increases and temperatures drop. Dormant Bermuda has low water needs. Only water if you have an extended dry period.

Do not apply any more fertilizer.

Quick Reference: Bermuda Annual Schedule

Late winter (soil below 55°F): Pre-emergent application, winter weed control on dormant lawn

Spring green-up (soil at 65°F, mowed twice): First fertilizer, 0.5 lb N per 1,000 sqft, slow-release

Late spring: Dethatch if needed, core aerate, second pre-emergent 8 to 10 weeks after first

Summer: Fertilize every 4 to 6 weeks at 0.75 to 1 lb N, monitor for insects, spot-treat weeds

Early fall (6 to 8 weeks before frost): Final nitrogen, potassium if needed, fall pre-emergent, fungicide if spring dead spot history

Late fall: Stop mowing, stop irrigating, stop fertilizing

FAQ

What mowing height is best for Bermuda?

Hybrid Bermuda varieties should be mowed at 0.5 to 1.5 inches. Common Bermuda does better at 1.5 to 2.5 inches. Lower heights require a reel mower and very level ground. Most home lawn owners maintain between 1 and 2 inches with a rotary mower.

How much water does Bermuda need in summer?

Around 1 to 1.25 inches per week from rainfall and irrigation combined. Water deeply and infrequently rather than lightly every day. Deep watering encourages deep root growth. Shallow daily watering encourages shallow roots that stress quickly in heat.

When should I overseed Bermuda with ryegrass?

If you want a green lawn through winter, overseed with perennial ryegrass when soil temperatures reach 74 degrees in fall. That's typically September to October depending on your zone. Scalp the Bermuda before overseeding to reduce competition.

Can I fertilize Bermuda in fall?

Light nitrogen is acceptable in early fall, 6 to 8 weeks before first frost. Stop after that. Potassium in fall is beneficial regardless of nitrogen timing.

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